To Kinshasa and Back... Phew!
A week spent hopping on and off domestic flights between Kananga and Kinshasa. . I am beginning to understand that in the Congo, the bribe culture is pretty much accepted as the way to make an honest buck… and the fact that government employees have often not been paid in months really only compounds the problem, making the recourse to ‘fundraising’ a la bribery and corruption an essential way of life.
I was relieved to get back to Kananga after a week of life in the big city. I narrowly avoided being laid off my flight back to Kananga when the representative of the Director General for Migration at Kinshasa airport informed me that I would not be permitted to travel as I carried the wrong type of visa and did not have a mining permit (which, apparently all NGO workers involved in Primary Healthcare must carry in order to travel to Kananga).
The aforementioned office bearer continued that he would hold my passport until the plane took off, after which I would be free to leave the airport. There was however a get out clause: I could buy him a scratch card for his telephone in order that he could call his bosses to discuss my case. He refused to use my phone (my number was, of course not registered with the Director General!).
In this situation, I was mildly amused and I asked him to clarify: I was not permitted to travel, but if I purchased calling credit for his phone, he could facilitate my travel. I am afraid that this request for clarification ignited this officers simmering temper, he ordered me to leave the office, without my passport, by force, if necessary! I was summoned back to the great man after a long half hour. He handed me back my passport and explained that as I was assisting needy Congolese children that I would be permitted to travel. I was glad that I stood my ground!
So, good to be back in civilised Kananga. Here we may not have the vast array of bright lights and big city diversions…. We may not even have any electricity or running water, but when you have, the architectural grandeur of Belgium’s last ditch attempt at establishing its capital city in Kananga, clear skies, fair climate, and ‘Monolux’ the most up market joint in town, serving delicious chicken and chips in the strategic position directly on top of the petrol station… my choice will always be to be a resident of Kananga with the minimum necessary trips to Kinshasa.
Kinshasa not all bad though: 3615 the pizzeria is pretty good, although obviously the haunt of most of Kinshasa’s commercial sex workers. My big recommendations for Kinshasa are an evening run beside the Congo: the road is located in Gombe, and across the river (which is much smaller than I imagined), you can see the lights of Brazzaville in the twilight. The other top tip for all my Bollywood buddies is the Taj Tandoori, on the top floor of an ultra art deco apartment building, apparently constructed as a vantage point for the last Belgian King to be sovereign of the Congo Free State, a misnomer if ever I heard one.
Work stuff’s hectic. Lots to do, and some interesting results, judging from several emails form colleagues I am the latest in a long line of Aid worker avatars to be in Kananga. As one of my beloved cousins observed: it’s a funny old business we’re in!
I was relieved to get back to Kananga after a week of life in the big city. I narrowly avoided being laid off my flight back to Kananga when the representative of the Director General for Migration at Kinshasa airport informed me that I would not be permitted to travel as I carried the wrong type of visa and did not have a mining permit (which, apparently all NGO workers involved in Primary Healthcare must carry in order to travel to Kananga).
The aforementioned office bearer continued that he would hold my passport until the plane took off, after which I would be free to leave the airport. There was however a get out clause: I could buy him a scratch card for his telephone in order that he could call his bosses to discuss my case. He refused to use my phone (my number was, of course not registered with the Director General!).
In this situation, I was mildly amused and I asked him to clarify: I was not permitted to travel, but if I purchased calling credit for his phone, he could facilitate my travel. I am afraid that this request for clarification ignited this officers simmering temper, he ordered me to leave the office, without my passport, by force, if necessary! I was summoned back to the great man after a long half hour. He handed me back my passport and explained that as I was assisting needy Congolese children that I would be permitted to travel. I was glad that I stood my ground!
So, good to be back in civilised Kananga. Here we may not have the vast array of bright lights and big city diversions…. We may not even have any electricity or running water, but when you have, the architectural grandeur of Belgium’s last ditch attempt at establishing its capital city in Kananga, clear skies, fair climate, and ‘Monolux’ the most up market joint in town, serving delicious chicken and chips in the strategic position directly on top of the petrol station… my choice will always be to be a resident of Kananga with the minimum necessary trips to Kinshasa.
Kinshasa not all bad though: 3615 the pizzeria is pretty good, although obviously the haunt of most of Kinshasa’s commercial sex workers. My big recommendations for Kinshasa are an evening run beside the Congo: the road is located in Gombe, and across the river (which is much smaller than I imagined), you can see the lights of Brazzaville in the twilight. The other top tip for all my Bollywood buddies is the Taj Tandoori, on the top floor of an ultra art deco apartment building, apparently constructed as a vantage point for the last Belgian King to be sovereign of the Congo Free State, a misnomer if ever I heard one.
Work stuff’s hectic. Lots to do, and some interesting results, judging from several emails form colleagues I am the latest in a long line of Aid worker avatars to be in Kananga. As one of my beloved cousins observed: it’s a funny old business we’re in!
posted by Gabriello Princip at 8:01 AM
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